Ribera del Duero just might be the most unlikely place for a darling of the natural wine world to practice his art, and yet that’s where we find Goyo Garcia, who’s been crafting wines that toe the line between earthy and ethereal for nearly two decades.

Goyo is the descendant of one of the region’s most respected winemaking families, and as such, he has abundant connections in the region; he’s been able to amass some very old vines and a 4th century (yes, 4th!) cellar in which to age his wines.

He works almost exclusively with Tempranillo (called Tinto Fino or Tinta del País in the local dialect), with some other native grapes occasionally thrown in the mix. While most of his wines receive the typical treatment of an old vine plot — long maceration, followed by longer aging in both new and old, neutral oak — today’s wine is uniquely a young wine of old vines.

From a plot of 40-year-old Tempranillo vines, Goyo’s Joven de Viñas Viejas is meant to be drunk young and with great joy. It’s his only unoaked cuvée, allowing the purity of the fruit to shine through, along with the distinctiveness of the region. The wine is fresh, and vibrant; there’s no doubt that this wine comes from a place where the sun shines brilliantly.

Goyo’s aim is to recreate the Ribera del Duero wines of his grandparents and great-grandparent’s era, before lots of new oak and excessively high alcohol levels became de rigeur. To accomplish this goal, he eschews the use of chemicals (no SO2 is added during élevage), farms organically and focuses on extracting terroir from each individual vineyard.

While many of Goyo’s more serious wines require long aging in the cellar or a long decant, the Joven de Viñas Viejas offers sheer pleasure, on its own or with a simple meal. 

Goyo Garcia Viadero Joven de Vinas Viejas 2021 - $27.99