You know the story: As the most famous White Burgundy producers become scarcer than hen’s teeth, even the producers we used to call “overlooked” are becoming allocated. The growers we used to depend upon to stock our shelves with great Chardonnay have become once-a-year treats that don’t make it to the shelf for long, if at all.

For better and for worse, we can add Jean-Phillippe Fichet to the list. Hard as it is for his long-time fans, it’s obviously fair: Fichet is as big a talent as they come and he's been a favorite of critics (including, notably, Burghound) since long before he became a darling of collectors. The good news is, we just got our allocation of his absolutely gorgeous 2022s.

What makes Fichet so beloved? Exactly what you'd expect: he's a grower with an amazing terroir who does an A+ job of expressing that terroir. He has lots of old vines with deep roots -- the Gruyaches vines are now 106 years old and even the Bourgogne Blanc are 45-80. The naturally low yields those old vines give translate the sites' tastes and even their unique textures. The old vines give him a leg up. But he accentuates the natural concentration by managing yields through rigorous winter pruning rather than a heavy summer green harvest (that was one of Jayer’s secrets, too: he said that by the time the vine had created all those shoots you spend the summer pruning, the vine had wasted too much of it's essential goodness).

The farming is “lutte raisonée,” minimizing inputs. Most wines ferment in barrels (generally, older) on wild yeasts, and age for 11-18 months depending on the vintage and the site. Likewise, though Jean-Philippe uses relatively little batonnage, he will use some in certain vintages or cuvées.

The result in 2022 was amazing. Just look at Allen Meadow's rave reviews!

Here is what Jean-Philippe told Burghound about the 2022 vintage: "Conditions were quite warm if not blazing and beyond dry. There was very little disease pressure. I chose to begin picking on the 29th of August. They remind me of the 2017s, though for fun if we go back in time a bit, they remind me of the 1992s when they were young. The 2022s have the fat and roundness to drink well young but the stuffing to repay extended keeping. This is why they remind me of the 1992s."

My personal notes: "I visited with a friend in November of 2023, we talked with Jean-Philippe and Théo, his nephew and future heir to the estate. J-P is very fit, he does not look 72. The vines are old — the Bourgogne Blanc vines are between 47 and 80 years old, and the Gruyaches vines are now 106 years old. The wines have great focus and precision, they are delicate yet powerful and light on their feet. These 2022s should age brilliantly."

Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc Cote d'Or 2022 - $44.99
"Discreet but not invisible application of wood, cool, relatively high-toned aromas of lemongrass and pear nuances. Delicious vibrant flavors, lovely texture, solid length, balanced, dry, refreshing finish supported by citrus-tinged acidity. Good stuff for its level and worth a look." -Burghound

Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc V.V. Cote d'Or 2022 $55.99
"Spicier, more layered nose is otherwise similar to that of the regular cuvée. Sleeker, more refined medium weight flavors, impressive density, better depth, persistence, clean, dry, compact and balanced finish where a touch of austerity emerges. This is excellent, indeed examples of Bourgogne are rarely better - one to buy, especially for value." -Burghound