Visiting Domaine du Jaugaret is like stepping into a time machine. While neighbors like Ducru-Beaucaillou and Léoville-Poyferré operate out of gleaming, architect-designed facilities that resemble luxury hotels, Jaugaret remains a "dungeon." The cellar is small, dim, and lined with black mold; filled with ancient barrels and rusted iron tools. It hasn't changed much since the Fillastre family began making wine here in 1654.

Jean-François Fillastre, the current custodian, is the most significant unbroken link to Médoc's past. He farms a tiny plot of old vines in the heart of Saint-Julien, completely ignoring modern oenological trends. There are no optical sorters, no temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and absolutely no consultants.

This refusal to modernize has made him a controversial figure—authorities have frequently threatened to strip him of the appellation because his wines don't taste "modern" enough—but to us, his wines are the most pure, poetic renditions of Cabernet Sauvignon in France. They are wines of soul, not science.

We are thrilled to offer a rare parcel of the 2009 vintage. 2009 was a legendary year in Bordeaux, known for its solar power and ripe, generous fruit. In the hands of a staunch traditionalist like Fillastre, this warmth was a blessing. The vintage provided a layer of lush, velvety flesh that perfectly coats the stonily firm, structural bones of his classic Saint-Julien.

At 16 years of age, this wine is entering its prime window, oozing with aromas of violets, cassis, unsmoked tobacco, and fresh mint. However, do not let age fool you—this wine is built like a tank. It is still incredibly vibrant and sinewy. We strongly recommend a lengthy decant (at least two hours) to let the "dungeon" funky notes blow off and allow the fruit to wake up. This is a disappearing art form; drink it while history still allows.

Domaine du Jaugaret Saint-Julien 2009 - $119.99