Serafino Rivella: Great Terroir plus Great Techniques
It’s easy to understand why everybody who loves Piedmont is so excited by Serafino Rivella’s Barbarescos.
First of all, it all comes from Montestefano, the great Cru in the commune of Barbaresco where Teobalda and Marta Rivella grow 100% of their Nebbiolo. The Cru is special because its vineyards point straight south and there is a concentration of limestone in the soils that is higher than anywhere else in Barbaresco. The result is dark and brooding Barbaresco that is long lived and easy to mistake for Barolo.
The tradition is pure Piedmont, to the point that a noted UK wine professional once said: “imagine if Maria-Theresa Mascarello [of Bartolo Mascarello] made Barbaresco, it would taste like that!”. There are long macerations, Mascarello-style, followed by up to 40 months of aging in huge neutral casks.
Add to tradition and terroir one final ingredient: laser focus. They make only two wines, a Dolcetto, and today’s Barbaresco – all from vines that were planted around 60 years ago.
Today’s 2020 is not just a great Barbaresco, but also a nicely approachable one. Like many 2020s, there is a freshness and an openness to the wine that makes it just so appealing. But don’t worry, there’s still plenty of Montestefano burliness and depth to carry the wine for years and even decades in the cellar.
Serafino Rivella Barbaresco Montestefano 2020 - $119.99
"The 2020 Barbaresco Montestefano is gorgeous. Sweet scents of pipe tobacco, spice, dried herbs, mint, leather and crushed autumn leaves all grace this exquisite, super-classic Barbaresco. The 2020 offers a beguiling mix of the slightly oxidative character that is typical here with bright Nebbiolo acids that add a counterpoint. The 2020 can be enjoyed now with aeration. A bottle tasted that had been opened 24 hours in advance was nicely softened, while a freshly opened bottle showed a bit more nervous energy. The overall flavor profile was pretty similar. 94pts" - Antonio Galloni (Vinous)
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