Bordeaux is not the first place that comes to mind for cutting edge wines, experimental winemakers, or non-conventional farming. In some ways, the region as a whole is a victim of its own success. With... Read More
Bordeaux is not the first place that comes to mind for cutting edge wines, experimental winemakers, or non-conventional farming. In some ways, the region as a whole is a victim of its own success. With some of the world's most lauded wines that fetch some of its highest prices, why mess with a sure thing?
The truth is that — outside of the top, maybe 100 famous Châteaux — the region is quite provincial. Farmers grow grapes and make simple, everyday, affordable wines from appellations you’ve never heard of, without the polish of expensive consulting winemakers.
It’s here that the real exciting stuff is happening. Chateau Sainte Marie's Stéphane Dupuch encompasses everything we admire about the “New Bordeaux”.
His vineyard work is impressive. Not only has he been farming organically since 1997, he’s set up a closed loop system, including growing bamboo for mulching under the vines. Furthermore, he spends a great deal of time and effort convincing his Entre-Deux-Mers neighbors to adopt some of the same methods.
Bordeaux just approved a bunch of new grape varieties to experiment with in the face of climate change. Stéphane has been illegally growing alternatives for decades. He also exploits the full spectrum of approved varieties to help with complexity in the wines and biodiversity in the vineyards.
Cellar work is nontraditional, with all actions coordinated with the lunar cycles. Ingenious tools, like swapping a barrel head for a plexiglass window help with tracking the lees progression and confirming when to carry out battonage and racking. Some new oak is employed, but only in larger 400-600L barrels, rather than the ubiquitous 225L, allowing for cohesion less overt oak flavor.
