The story of Roland Velich, the man behind Moric, mirrors the evolution of Burgenland as a whole. He started out working at the family estate in Apetlon, to the east of Neusiedlersee, making the sweet... Read More

The story of Roland Velich, the man behind Moric, mirrors the evolution of Burgenland as a whole. He started out working at the family estate in Apetlon, to the east of Neusiedlersee, making the sweet wines the region was once famous for. But Roland saw the potential in Blaufränkisch and its ability to express the dynamic terroir of Burgenland early on. He struck out on his own.

He’s done more to expose the world to the incredible aging ability and intricacies of the wines of Burgenland than any other producer. His old vine parcels in Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsburg are ethereal, vinified in an elegant Burgundian style, and yet very clearly of their place.

Roland’s commitment to terroir expression is so strong that he finds himself at odds with the governmental tasting panels each year. Several of his wines are regularly refused DAC status because they don't follow the tasting panels stylistic interpretation. The panel wants classically clean and clear wines, fined, filtered and with plenty of SO2. Roland refuses to engage that much manipulation, feeling it mars the sense of place. So his wines are often labelled simply as Osterreich or Austria.

Someone recently asked Roland why he keeps fighting, why not just leave the wines generically labeled now that they have a following? He replied that nothing is more important than place. His whole job is to express the place he is making wine from as clearly as possible, not to adhere to a regulated style by people who've become accustomed to manipulated wines.

Few winemakers here have been making wine long enough that we can have them with age and see how they stand the test of time. But Moric has been around a while and back vintages are occasionally available. If you really want to understand the potential of this region, drink Moric.