Siro Pacenti, the highly rated and reviewed estate in Montalcino is a perfect example. They are not classically “traditional” for a couple of reasons. First the estate is relatively new, founded in 1970 just as... Read More

Siro Pacenti, the highly rated and reviewed estate in Montalcino is a perfect example. They are not classically “traditional” for a couple of reasons. First the estate is relatively new, founded in 1970 just as Brunello was finally beginning to shake off the damage of 2 world wars and a long economic recession. And second, Siro’s son, Giancarlo, was trained in Bordeaux and has from the time he took over in 1988 insisted on using winemaking methods that are clearly more, well, French.

What this boils down to is a choice of barrels for aging the wine. Giancarlo has always used French oak instead of Slavonian, and he adds new barrels every year into the mix in order to maintain strict standards of cleanliness. But that’s about it. The estate itself is run very much in line with tradition, having only about 20 of the 60 hectares planted to Sangiovese (yes, just Sangiovese) and the rest is olive groves and cereal grains.

Giancarlo is very much focused on the farming, and has been using biodynamic principles along with organic practices for many years. Clean, ripe, healthy fruit is the key to producing wines of transparency and terroir, which is the only goal in the cellar. There is nothing “international” at all in this pursuit of producing the finest wines of Brunello.

So where should we place Siro Pacenti on the spectrum between modern and traditional? I don't think it matters. What does is that wines are poised, elegant, powerful and delicious. And purely Montalcino.