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Bottle of G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2021-Red Wine-Flatiron SF

G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2021

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by G.D. Vajra
$47.99
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Aldo Vaira, and his son Giuseppe, the two generations now managing the domaine, have an interesting specialty: Barolo from high altitudes. Even their residence is way up in Vergne, the highest-altitude village in the DOC.

High altitudes have some well-known effects. The vines ripen later, so you get longer growing seasons and better acidities. You have thinner soils with rocky outposts, so you get more minerality.

But here is a lesser-known consequence: You get quite a bit of variation in when the sun rises. The Vairas observe that in three of their vineyards, Fossati, Le Coste, and La Volta, the dawns are approximately 20 minutes apart. There are three dawns. Hence, they call the blend from these vineyards “Albe,” which is Italian for “dawns.”

Cute, yes, but also profound. Barolo was traditionally blended because you wanted different parts to contribute to a greater whole. For this to work, you need a diversity of terroir. The dawns themselves, of course, don’t provide this diversity, but they do correlate strongly with differences in micro-climate and other terroir features.

And it works. Antonio Galloni has pronounced that “The Albe may be the single best value in Barolo today.” This is Barolo for drinking now, but also for aging a year, two, or five.

Active since the nineteenth century, the property was revitalised in 1968 by Aldo Vajra. Since taking the helm, Aldo has remained an influential force in Barolo, pioneering organic viticulture and resuscitating lesser-known varieties like Freisa. Aldo’s passion for his craft is shared by his children who now join him in the vines and cellar.

While the Vajras are progressive in their actions, their wines are classic. Farming is meticulous and vinification of the estate’s flagship Barolos, from magnificent high altitude crus, follows the time-honored protocol of long fermentation and aging in large neutral oak barrels.

Vajra's Barolo is known for, more than anything else, its purity. Vajra makes Barolo so airy that it seems to float, its essence of Nebbiolo wafting from the glass and seeping across your palate like mist.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 91
"The 2021 Barolo Albe is bright, aromatic and vibrant in the glass. Medium in body and super-refined, the 2021 is a delight. This is one of the more understated recent vintages I can remember tasting. It’s a terrific introduction to this range." -Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

RP 95
"That's the equivalent of this wine. The G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Albe is an enormously versatile expression of Nebbiolo, with an affordable price, that offers more value for your money than most Barolos out there. The bouquet focuses on dark berry, pressed flower and crushed stone. It offers good sharpness over broad lines. The mouthfeel is medium-plus in texture and it closes with silky, accessible tannins. Fruit comes from three cru sites: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta." -Monica Larner

Decanter

D 93
"This multi-MGA Barolo is made from the estate's younger vines, although the average age is a respectable 30 years. Winemaker Giuseppe Vaira calls it a "blend with immediate drinkability". Indeed, it is already irresistible with its emerging and lively aromas of peppery strawberries, dried violets and crushed allspice. On the palate it is silky and refined, with a clarity of crisp red fruits. The multi-layered tannins support it without overpowering it - it is very seamlessly blended. It promises to reveal even more with a little more time in the bottle."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied