Flatiron Wines & Spirits SF

Picture a single vineyard in Mardeuil, on the left bank of the Marne, planted in 1969 by a grandfather who understood his land. The parcel faces north—not the typical choice for Pinot Noir, but the Marne has its own logic. Here, even north-facing sites deliver something special because the river moderates everything, the clay-limestone soils provide richness, and the flint adds a mineral backbone that keeps the wine from going soft.

This is Carrés du Midi, and it belongs to the fourth generation of the Gamet family, who've been making Champagne since 1920. The estate spans both sides of the Marne across three villages, giving them access to a range of terroirs. On the left bank where this vineyard sits, the soils are richer—clay-limestone with chalk and flint—and that northern exposure brings finesse without sacrificing the inherent generosity of the site.

Father Philippe Gamet has always favored blended Champagnes, the kind that balance multiple sites for aromatic harmony. But his son Jean-François had other ideas. He began to make a collection of single-parcel wines, each one a portrait of a specific place in the Vallée de la Marne. Carrés du Midi is one of those portraits, and it's painted in bold strokes.

This 100% Pinot Noir Champagne is fermented and aged in oak barrels for 10 months. Then it goes into bottle for another three and a half years before disgorgement. No dosage at all is added to smooth things over. What you get is Pinot Noir from the Marne in its full expression: fruit-forward with hints of baking spices like cinnamon and cloves, weight and vinosity that make it feel more like wine than a mere sparkling beverage. It’s a richness that comes from the clay in the soil and the generosity of the site.

This is rich Champagne, perhaps more appropriate for a meal rather than cocktail hour. Still, it’s open and welcoming. Our advice: start a glass just before the food is served, and then finish your bottle with the first course.