Alma Fria: Breathtakingly Elegant Wine from the Rugged, Unforgiving California Coast

With its vineyards perched on remote ridgetop hills, the West Sonoma Coast, represents California winemaking, both figuratively and literally, at its absolute edge. This rugged territory of foggy redwood lined cliffs was officially recognized as the country’s youngest AVA in 2022 thanks to a decade of lobbying by a few local visionaries. The extreme climate is heavily shaped by the chilly Pacific waters bringing with it blankets of morning and evening fog and persistent winds. Along with coastal goldridge soils these conditions allow for wines that are totally unique for California. Beautifully concentrated but surprisingly light on their feet, these coastal wines are structured by a mouthwatering streak of acidity that makes them incredibly delicious in their youth while also allowing them to age gracefully for decades.

At the heart of this coastal movement is Carroll Kemp, a gregarious, lovable, and multi-talented guy whose winemaking journey mirrors the evolution of the region itself. Originally a Hollywood producer, Carroll transitioned to the vineyards and became the force behind Red Car, where he famously helped spark the statewide dry rosé revolution. But as Red Car grew rapidly and corporate investor pressure mounted, Carroll craved a return to something authentic and small scale. He chose to walk away, taking a buyout to dedicate himself entirely to Alma Fria, a boutique project he had started as a side gig in 2012. He went from managing forty employees to just one: himself.

Alma Fria is the culmination of Carroll’s two decades of learning this extreme coastline, and his approach is all about listening to the land. His pride and joy is the estate Holtermann Vineyard near Annapolis, which has been farmed organically since 2013 with a mix of biodynamic techniques. Because he knows these ridge tops better than almost anyone, Carroll guides his other growers toward organic practices too. For him, it’s a matter of personal honesty. He believes that if you don’t work the land with total respect, it isn't worth the work

In the cellar, Carroll practices what he calls a naked winemaking style, meaning no additions, no alterations, and zero shortcuts. Grapes are picked early to keep things fresh and lively. The Pinot Noirs ferment to dryness with a bit of stem inclusion for structure, while the Chardonnays are whole clusters pressed straight to the barrel. He lets everything ferment naturally with wild yeasts, skips any added acid or water, and uses just a tiny touch of new oak. He isn't doing this to be trendy. He does it because he wants to show off the exceptional terroir he's been graced with by making the most transparent wine possible.

We absolutely love these bottles, and honestly, they are some of the most dynamic and impressive wines being made in California today. The lineup centers around buoyant,, elegant Chardonnays and deeply savory Pinot Noirs that easily rival cult bottles costing twice the price. Carroll’s creative itch has led him to craft tiny, few dozen case batches of traditional method sparkling wine, cool climate Syrah, and a rare maritime Cabernet. All of his wines are limited, stunningly vibrant gems that quietly dot the country’s best Michelin starred lists, and they offer a beautiful, authentic look into the wildest stretches of the coast. As you will see below, the press is enamored and thus demand is going up. Since he doesn't plan on scaling, we suspect some of these will become very hard to find.

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Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Plural Sonoma Coast 2024 - $39.99
“The 2024 Pinot Noir Plural is terrific. Aromatic, bright and punchy, the 2024 is superb. Crushed flowers, vibrant red/purplish fruit, mint, rose petal and spice open in the glass. The 2024 is a blend of fruit from Holtermann, Richardson Ranch and Goldrock, all elite sites, with 15% stems. It's a gorgeous, mid-weight wine that beautifully captures the spirit of the West Sonoma Coast.” - Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Plural Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 - $49.99
“The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Plural is a bright, savory wine—the sort of Cabernet that can only be made on the Sonoma Coast. Savory herbs, mint, licorice and earthy notes meld together in this super distinctive, cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright saline underpinnings extend the finish. Readers who enjoy delicate, nervy Cabernets will adore this. It’s a gorgeous wine in every way”.

Alma Fria San Luis Obispo Coast Syrah Stolo Vineyard 2023 - $49.99
A true cold-climate Syrah from the Stolo Vineyard, planted in 2008 a stone's throw from the Pacific in Cambria on the San Luis Obispo Coast. The site is farmed regeneratively and biodynamically by Raj Parr (of Phelan Farms next door); mornings are ocean-fogged two days out of three and the thermometer rarely tops 80F. Alma Fria's Carroll Kemp uses 20% whole.

Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Chardonnay Joyce Vineyard 2024 - $59.99
The 2024 Joyce Vineyard Chardonnay bursts with energy and momentum. Framed by a scintillating saltiness, its flavors open to reveal distinct impressions of Meyer lemon, wildflower honey and Gravenstein apple. It is a harmonious ballet between mouthwatering minerality and enormous depth and amplitude with a pitch perfect whiff of reduction.

Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Sparkling Chardonnay NV - $79.99
“Light-to-medium yellow-gold, with medium-fine bubbles. Aromas of citrus peel and parchment with a hint of dried apples. A plush mousse fills the palate and delivers wonderfully salty flavours of lemon peel and lemon oil, orange peel and seawater, with a hint of toasted bread. Excellent acidity and wonderful, smooth depth. Very impressive debut.” - Alder Yarrow (JancisRobinson.com)

Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Richardson Ranch 2024 - $79.99
“The 2024 Pinot Noir Richardson Ranch is a big step up from the 2023, but then again, this is a very young site. Dark, vibrant and savory, the 2024 dazzles from start to finish. Beams of tannin and brisk, salivating acids lend shape. Readers should expect a savory, vertical Pinot bursting at the seams with personality. This is such a gorgeous wine, one that may very well become an archetype for the new Annapolis-Sea Ranch AVA that is currently being reviewed by government authorities.” - Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

Alma Fria Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Holtermann Vyd 2023 - $79.99
Decidedly old world with its distinctive pomegranate, black raspberry and blood orange fruits that are encased in layers of clove, nutmeg and allspice. Sings with a seamless mouthfeel and transparent purity. The 2.56-acre Holtermann Vineyard, located just north of Annapolis, CA (population 200) and five miles inland from the captivating Sea Ranch coastal community, is truly farming on the edge. Its proximity to the ocean moderates daily high temperatures and diurnal fluctuations, leading to consistent seasons and slow, balanced fruit development.

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