...brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche are quietly crafting sophisticated, terroir-expressive champagnes that are poised to rival the region's best.

-Peter Liem, Champagne

The great grower Champagnes that excite Champagne lovers these days tend to fall into a certain category, with low dosage, low sulfur, and a decidedly edgy vibe. We love them. But one grower has managed to gain fame and fortune—not to mention a cult-like obsession here in the U.S.—without going in that direction: Bérêche & Fils.

On paper, at least, everything about Bérêche is classical. This starts with history, as this is a domaine that was founded just before the U.S. Civil War. It continues with the land. We are not in an obscure corner of Champagne, but at its historic heart, with plots scattered around the Montagne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne.

Indeed, their signature wine, the Brut Réserve on offer today, would not have seemed out of place before the Grower movement began. It is an approximately equal blend of Champagne’s three main grape varieties. It has, at seven grams, a dosage that rounds out the edges and adds a luxurious touch. And it is a multi-vintage blend: this release is approximately 70% from the super fresh and tasty 2021 vintage with the balance coming from the previous few vintages.

Traditional and classical, perhaps, and yet something sets it apart: sheer excellence. Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche's intense focus on high-quality farming and precise work in the cellar result in wines that, simply put, people—no matter how geeky their Champagne tastes—just love.

Bereche et Fils Champagne Brut Reserve ['21 Base] NV - $72.99