Philipponnat: The Best of the Boutiques
We tend to divide our Champagnes into Growers versus Houses, but there is also an important in-between category that offers a lot of incredibly high-quality Champagne. We call it the Boutique House. It’s a space that’s occupied by Billecart Salmon and Jacquesson. They are technically Houses, but their work is rigorous and artisanal, and done on a much smaller scale than the Houses with the big brand names like Veuve Clicquot. They combine the excellent grape sourcing of a top House, with the refined wine-making of a Grower.
Philipponnat is a leading example of a Boutique House. Many wine lovers are familiar with them because of their Clos des Goisses, one of the most sought-after and treasured Champagnes of all – and which, as it dates back to 1935, was Champagne’s very first single-vineyard Champagne!
Like Jacquesson, and several other producers, Philipponnat has enjoyed a quality revolution in the 21st century. In 1999 a new Philipponnat took over (this is still a family domaine), Charles Philipponnat, and he radically upped the winery’s game. He made little innovations here and there – using only the first press juice from his Chardonnay, and extended the aging of his wines in neutral barrels, for example. His wines became more intense and richer, but also fresher.
No surprise, their non-vintage Champagnes are excellent – among the best in all of Champagne – and we particularly enjoy the Rosé. It’s a Pinot Noir-dominated blend with a gorgeous pink hue and the gentlest, most elegant strawberry fruit. It is an all-around crowd-pleaser such that your wine-loving self and your random cousin are both sure to enjoy it.
Philipponnat Champagne Brut Royale Reserve Rose NV - $78.99
This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them. |