If you look at a map of Piedmont’s most famous vineyards, a very clear dividing line emerges: the Tanaro River. On the southern side sit the legendary appellations of Barolo and Barbaresco, where dense clay and limestone soils produce famously muscular, tannic Nebbiolo that often demands years or even decades in the cellar to become approachable.
But if you cross the river to the north, you enter Roero. Here, the earth changes dramatically. The soils are predominantly composed of sand from an ancient seabed, and when you plant vines in sand, the rules completely change.
In the Roero, Nebbiolo behaves with an almost entirely different personality. The grape's famously aggressive tannins are naturally softened by the sandy terrain, resulting in wines defined by their sheer drinkability. They show those soaring Nebbiolo aromatics—crushed rose petals, wild violets, and bright, crunchy cherries—right away, offering immediate joy and beauty.
This is the exact magic captured by the Ferrio family at their certified-organic estate, Cascina Ca' Rossa. The family’s roots in these sandy hills run deep. In the 1960s, grandfather Alfonso (affectionately known as "Funsu") started the farm, originally selling his fruit by weight. His son Angelo eventually took the reins, stubbornly pushing the estate to bottle its own high-quality wine. Today, Angelo works side-by-side with his own son, Stefano, representing a beautiful multi-generational evolution.
Their 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo "Funsu" is a loving tribute to their patriarch and an excellent expression of Roero terroir. Vinified in stainless steel to preserve its absolute purity, it is gorgeously fragrant, quite elegant, and drinks with joyous, thirst-quenching ease. It gives you Nebbiolo’s natural beauty without requiring cellaring.
The sandy slopes are equally transformative for the 2023 Cascina Ca' Rossa Barbera d'Alba "Ansem". Because Barbera natively possesses high acidity and very little tannin, the sand here amplifies its brightest qualities, giving the wine a vibrant plushness that entirely avoids the rustic heaviness found in other parts of the region. "Ansem" translates to "Together" in the local dialect—a nod to the father--son-grandson collaboration in the cellar—and it delivers a remarkably fresh, deeply savory wine packed with dark berry fruit that is built explicitly to be opened and shared around a crowded table.
We often say that it’s wines like this that the local Piedmontese “actually drink”. With prices like these, you can appreciate why that is:
Cascina Ca' Rossa Barbera d'Alba Ansem 2023 - $19.99
Cascina Ca' Rossa Langhe Nebbiolo Funsu 2023 - $26.99
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