When we talk about the Languedoc these days it's usually because of "new wave" winemakers like Maxime Magnon in Corbieres, or Domaine Leon Barral or Clos Fantine in Faugeres. And they're worth talking about! They farm labor intensive slopes, work conscientiously and turn out wines that show what the region (erstwhile better known for supermarket plonk) can actually do.

But lost in the excitement over “new wave Languedoc” are some of the producers who first blazed the trail for artisanal winemaking there. Iconic estates like Trevaillon, Grange des Peres and, perhaps most famously, Mas de Daumas Gassac.

The Mas was “discovered” in 1971 by a French geology professor who found a cool, wind-swept microclimate and an old, incredibly diverse vineyard planted with over 40 varieties. With the help of iconic oenologist Emile Peynaud and the stewardship of the Guibert family, Mas de Daumas Gassac quickly became a wine that recast the potential of this “lost” region.

The estate's “Grand Vin” is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Cab Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Tannat, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto (what?!). It's vinified in cement tanks, aged in both new and used barriques, and built to last. It's tight and focused when young but relaxes into a silky, kaleidoscopic wine of true distinction.

They also make a white wine, which is equally “Grand” despite having only four grapes: Viognier, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Rich and expressive, with just enough skin contact to add structure and density, but not to turn the wine orange. It ranks among the greatest white wines of the Languedoc.

We love the 2021 across all of France, for their freshness and purity of fruit, and these are no exceptions. Grab a couple bottles – one to try now, and another in three to five years, as both colors of the wine age beautifully.

Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 2021 $64.99

Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2021 $64.99