Domaine Mee Godard Moulin a Vent Deschanes 2023

Name: Domaine Mee Godard Moulin a Vent Deschanes 2023
Brand: Grand Cru Selections [GCS]
SKU: SF-GCS--031826-12
Price: 65.99 USD
Availability: InStock

$65⁹⁹

Mee's newest parcel, only .7 ha of 46 year old vines at relatively high altitude on sandy soils. Moulin-à-Vent is primed for a vin de garde style, and she threads the needle with precision and care.

Lighter in color than the Morgon's, with brighter acidity and violet and tart plum high toned notes to go with the blackberry and blueberry fruit. There is some a stony minerality with graphite, licorice, stones, wet earth and a very medicinal finish.

Tannins are just sexy, finer than the Morgon's, but more rounded from the sandy soils, like velvet across your tongue. Accessible now and easiest drinking along with the Grand Cras, but I still recommend giving it a good dose of air, if not a couple years in the cellar.

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Antonio Galloni

89 points

"The 2023 Moulin-à-Vent Deschanes comes from a 0.7-hectare parcel on sandy soils, located close to but at a higher altitude than Au Michelon. It has an open, transparent bouquet with airy red fruit tones. The palate is slightly chalky in texture with a touch of pure, tart red cherry fruit, light grip and a bright, crunchy finish. Drink this over the next five or six years." —Neal Martin

More about Domaine Mee Godard

Mee came to Beaujolais and started her domaine in the 2013 vintage. Imagine if someone came out of nowhere to create a new domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin and managed to start with parcels of Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin, and Clos de Bèze. Impossible! But that’s exactly what Mee did in Morgon, acquiring parcels in the three great crus of the village: Corcelette, Côte du Py, and Grand Cras.

The reason she could do this, of course, is money. Top Beaujolais costs about €30,000 per hectare. As Jon Bonné has pointed out in Punch magazine, even lowly Savigny-lès-Beaune in Burgundy commands a price around ten times that. (We're not aware of any recent trades but a hectare of Chambertin would no doubt cost many millions of euros.)

Of course, we don't love Mee just because she managed to acquire some prime parcels; her winemaking is stellar and takes full advantage of her terroir. Beaujolais producers usually find themselves making a choice. Do they use carbonic maceration and low-extraction techniques to produce easy-drinking quaffers? Or do they use a more Burgundian style of winemaking to produce structured wines that can be aged?

Mee Godard opts for a middle approach. She does some carbonic fermentation, some traditional fermentation, and then blends them together. Her wines are definitely delicious on release, and we are pretty sure they'll age well, too—her oldest wines are 2013s, so this hasn't really been put to the test yet.