Italian wine nerds have long considered Taurasi to be the absolute greatest red wine of the south, often calling it the Barolo of Campania. It relies on Aglianico, a grape that, much like Nebbiolo, packs a stunning punch of power, finesse, and a crazy ability to transmit the terroir that it's grown in. When you plant it on the high-altitude slopes of Irpinia, buried deep in ancient volcanic ash from Mount Vesuvius, Aglianico pumps out wines with incredible structure that can easily age for decades.

Salvatore Molettieri is undeniably one of the modern rockstars of this region. Coming from a long line of farmers, he set up his own label back in 1988 in the village of Montemarano, which most folks agree is basically the grand cru of Taurasi. Because of the high altitude and chilly microclimate, the grapes up here are harvested up to three weeks later than in neighboring towns. That seriously long hang-time locks in the bright, zippy acidity you absolutely need for any world-class Italian red.

One of the nice things about this region is their local habit of holding onto bottles until they are actually ready to drink. Today, we have the super rare privilege of offering Molettieri's flagship Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce from the 2007 vintage. Pushing two decades of age, this wine has totally shed its aggressive, youthful tannins and morphed into a masterpiece of savory, evolved power. It is wildly Italian, jumping out of the glass with complex notes of black olive, wild herbs, and dried cherry, all backed by a deep, rumbling volcanic minerality.

If you want to see what Molettieri is up to on the fresher side of Aglianico, the 2021 Irpinia Aglianico Cinque Querce is an absolutely thrilling younger sibling. Sourced from the exact same "Five Oaks" vineyard, it’s made to show off the grape's raw, primary energy. It delivers a much more immediate take on Montemarano's terroir, bursting with dark fruit and a lifted, spicy finish that makes it ridiculously versatile at the dinner table right now.

These are basically the ultimate wines for hearty, soulful cooking. Fill your kitchen with the smell of a gently bubbling pot of ragù, pour the 2021 alongside your appetizers (or drink a little while you cook, with perhaps a glass going into the pot), and let that 2007 slowly open up in a decanter for the main course.

Salvatore Molettieri Irpinia Aglianico Cinque Querce 2021 - $27.99

Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce 2007 - $49.99