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Brovia's Nebbiolo Gets a Major Upgrade (And the 96-point Barolo's Not Bad Either)

Brovia's Nebbiolo Gets a Major Upgrade (And the 96-point Barolo's Not Bad Either)

 

The Brovia wines have often been outstanding, but over the last two decades or so, quality and consistency have both surged, placing this small, family-run estate in the upper echelon of Barolo producers.

 
– Vinous’ Antonio Galloni, way back in 2015


That was ten years ago and since then Brovia has only gotten better and better under the 4th generation leadership of Elena Brovia and her husband, Alex Sanchez. You can see it in the scores of their 2021 single-vineyard Barolo Crus, with wines like Villero, Brea and Garblet Sue getting 97-99 points, pretty much across the board. But those wines are very expensive and very hard to get. And great as they are, they don’t tell the whole Brovia story. For that, we want to look at Brovia’s “baby” wines – the less expensive wines we have on offer for you today. 

The most obvious value is the “basic” Barolo made by blending the younger-vine juice from Brea with those stellar 2021 Crus that didn’t fit in the single-vineyard casks. Not only do you get incredible terroir quality at a lower price, but you also get something a little closer to the ancient Barolo practice (still followed by the likes of Bartolo Mascarello and Beppe Rinaldi) of blending multiple sites to give a more holistic picture of that vintage of Barolo. In 2021, the holistic picture was, in Galloni’s words, “fabulous.” 

The most exciting value this year, however, is probably the 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo. We’ve always loved Brovia’s baby Nebbiolo. But in 2022 it is a different kind of beast. For the first time, Elena and Alex made the wine entirely from Barolo vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba, rather than from across the river in Roero (where the sandier soils make a lighter, less profound wine). In other words, you're drinking Barolo-village Nebbiolo at a fraction of the Barolo price. It is, in Kerin O’Keefe’s words, “a beauty.” Open a bottle on a weeknight and you’ll love it, but you’ll also see that it’s a perfect wine for a reasonable cellar: it’s going to pick up complexity for at least the next five years. 

And don't overlook the white. They make just one: a Roero Arneis from a tiny 0.8-hectare plot of 40-plus-year-old vines on sandy soils in Vezza d'Alba. But it gets all the same love and attention from Elena and Alex: hand-harvesting, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, no oak. It's mineral and pure, with citrus and stone fruit and a peppery edge — a benchmark Arneis from a producer most people only know for reds. A gorgeous way to start a meal before you open one of the Nebbiolos.

Brovia Roero Arneis 2024 - $31.99

Brovia Langhe Nebbiolo 2022 - $42.99
"The Brovia 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is a beauty, starting with its alluring aromatics of blue flower, eucalyptus, forest berry and spice along with a whiff of sun-warmed hay. Full-bodied and delicious, the smooth palate doles out succulent Morello cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and spiced orange zest. Surprisingly bright acidity for the hot vintage keeps it bright while polished tannins lend finesse. Drink through 2029." (Kerin O'Keefe)

Brovia Barolo 2021 - $69.99
“The 2021 Barolo is fabulous. Aromatic and vibrant, Brovia's straight Barolo is a fine choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. Longer aging in cask than the vineyard-designates helps accomplish that. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, dried cherry fruit, licorice and dried flowers give the 2021 tons of complexity. Bright acids pull it all together on the close. As always, the Brovia Barolo is built on a core of younger-vine fruit from Brea (about 70%) plus juice from the vineyard-designates that is left over after those casks are filled. 92 points.” - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

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