
Chapter 1 from Les Quatre Piliers
For us, the Touraine – a subregion of the Loire Valley (See our complete guide to the Loire Valley) – has always been very “useful”. Need a cheap Sauvignon Blanc? The Touraine usually has an answer for you.
A new producer has set out to prove that the Touraine is far more than merely useful. His name is Valentin Desloges. Inheriting a vineyard from his dad, he first ventured out in the world to learn how to make world-class wine. He studied Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand. He trained with white Burgundy legend Rafael Coche (of Coche-Dury).
Valentin has excellent terroir to work with. We are near Sancerre, so definitely in Sauvignon Blanc country. But here there is a mix of clay and a flinty limestone that is reminiscent of the silex you find in Pouilly Fume.
Today’s Sauvignon is made from vines that have been growing for over 70 years in those soils, which he farms organically and naturally. He crafts from them a serious white wine – barrel aged in used barrels acquired from Cheval Blanc. He keeps things natural: no fining, no filtration, and just a tiny smidgeon of sulfur at bottling.
New producers like Valentin don’t just show us new and more natural ways of producing wine. They also show us that there are still so many great terroirs out there that remain wildly underappreciated.
Les Quatre Piliers Touraine Chapitre I 2023 - $36.99
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