Pernand Vergelesses is a go-to example of why we like to focus on Burgundyโs edges: quality, price and availability.
The terroir couldnโt be betterโfor either red or white wine. Itโs a small appellation that lies at the foot of the legendary hill of Corton. In fact, some of Corton Charlemagnesโ vineyards are in Pernand. Pernand also has great producers, like Domaine Rollin who have been bottling their own production since the โ50s, and selling a good chunk of it to Neal Rosenthal since the early โ80s. Rollin has always been particularly great for anyone interested in Burgundian terroir, as their light touch with oak really lets the soil signature shine, even at a young age.
In spite of how good the wines are they remain somewhat under the radar, especially here in California. That might be because Pernand generally still lacks a bit of the cachรฉ of its neighbors, or perhaps because their style of precise, light touch wines of nuance and transparency wasn't quite what Chardonnay and Pinot drinkers had in mind in the Bay Area during the 90s and aughts. Whatever the reason, things are starting to change.
Simon Rollin, who joined his father Remรญ at the domaine back in 2003, made a long awaited trip to SF a couple months ago and I was fortunate to attend a dinner with him and Jean-Marc Pillot. Judging by the packed dining room and the reception from the crowd I don't think Simon's wines will be flying under the radar much longer.
Given climate change, Pernandโs exposition means slower maturations with gorgeous complexity and perfectly balanced acidity. As things continue to heat up in Burgundy the cooler sites in Pernand, Savigny and the like will be ever more appealing.
Details
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Grape Variety
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Vintage
2021
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Size
750ml
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Farming Practice
Sustainable
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Style
Earthy , Fruity , Minerally
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Sweetness
Dry
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Body
Medium Bodied