Flatiron Wines & Spirits SF

Like Jacquesson, and several other producers, Philipponnat has enjoyed a quality revolution in the 21st century. In 1999 a new Philipponnat took over (this is still a family domaine), Charles Philipponnat, and he radically upped the winery’s game. He made little innovations here and there – using only the first press juice from his Chardonnay, and extended the aging of his wines in neutral barrels, for example. His wines became more intense and richer, but also fresher. No surprise, their non-vintage Champagnes are excellent – among the best in all of Champagne – and we particularly enjoy the Rosé.

The great grower Champagnes that excite Champagne lovers these days tend to fall into a certain category, with low dosage, low sulfur, and a decidedly edgy vibe. We love them. But one grower has managed to gain fame and fortune—not to mention a cult-like obsession here in the U.S.—without going in that direction: Bérêche & Fils.

Marine Layer combines Pinot Noir grapes from several Sonoma Coast sites to create “Lyra”. It’s the name of the bright constellation that is visible in California from around the vine’s springtime re-awakening to the time of harvest – as if following the life of the grape. The natural elegance of these cool-climate grapes is emphasized in the wine-making, including by harvesting at night, preserving many whole berries, fermenting naturally, and using on 25% new wood.