Challao: Seeking One’s Fortune in Rioja
In fairy tales, there are often young men who go out to seek their fortune, a sack on their back. Sometimes, in the world of wine, it happens in real life. This is the story of Manuel “Manu” Michelini.
Manu grew up in a wine-producing family in Argentina. His Dad believed strongly in allowing his kids to seek out their own path in life. One vintage, he gave a bunch of grapes to Manu and said “Here, make some wine”. Manu did his best.
Still very young, Manu eventually put that sack on his back and went to Europe. He knocked on every door in Burgundy, asking if he could help. Most people said no. But Bize, Roulot, and Ramonet all welcomed him, and suddenly he was on his way to learning how to make great wine in a terroir-oriented Burgundian fashion.
But Manu’s destiny did not lie in Burgundy. He was drawn to Rioja, where land was plentiful and there was an ancient wine tradition that had not yet been (widely) translated into the more pure-fruited, terroir-focused wines of today. He went there and started Dominio del Challao.
He is still only 28 years old, but he has somehow managed to work 30 harvests! (Yes, those Southern Hemisphere harvests count too.) So he offers that rare combination of deep experience and youthful innovation.
This has produced beautiful wines that we are pleased to offer today. One is a classic Tempranillo-based blend that contains numerous heritage grape varieties that are not widely found in Rioja today. Grapes are foot-trodden and aging is mostly in large foudres.
The other is a do-not-miss Garnacha. Fans of the elegant and silky style of Garnacha that you get from Los Gredos will be excited to learn that this Garnacha, planted in the 1960s, grows in a site that is even cooler than the Gredos. This is thanks to altitude: it’s the highest-grown Garnacha in all of Rioja! Manu uses a combination of foot-trodden and uncrushed grapes, a Barolo-like maceration of 35 days, and extended aging in large French and Austrian casks.
These wines represent an exciting moment for Rioja, and are really just the happy beginning of a modern fairy tale:
Dominio del Challao Rioja Garnacha 2020 - $89.99
Dominio del Challao Rioja Angelita del Challao 2020 - $49.99
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