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Novello's Finest: The Full Range from Elvio Cogno

Novello's Finest: The Full Range from Elvio Cogno

Over the past decade, Cogno has joined the ranks of Piedmont's elite producers. No producer does that without making incredibly delicious wines – and Cogno’s wines are delicious. But no producer gets there just by making tasty wines. It's more than that. And two big things that stand out are clear in the case of Cogno. 
 
First, the greatest producers develop absolute mastery of a specific terroir – like DRC in Vosne Romanee, for example. Cogno has managed just that feat in Novello, where they make supreme examples of this little corner of Piedmont, famous for volcanic soils, blue schist, and hilltop vineyards. Second, like all great producers, they bring the same care and precision to every wine they make, from their “baby wines” up to their most prestigious collectibles.  Cogno has done that in spades.
 
Their Barolos are, not surprisingly, incredible examples of Novello. But the clearest example of Cogno’s devotion to their land is the obscure white wine they make from Nascetta. How obscure? Nascetta was all but extinct when they and a group of friendly neighbors rescued some of the few remaining vines scattered across Novello and tried them out in their vineyards. They were thrilled with the results, planted more land to the variety, and today that rescued grape has its own DOC. Cogno's Anas-Cëtta is the standard-bearer; as Monica Larner puts it, "this is always a terrific white and a natural palate-resetter from this mostly red wine region."
 
The same philosophy—terroir expression with immediate drinkability—runs through their more accessible reds. The Montegrilli Nebbiolo uses 30% carbonic maceration (Beaujolais-style whole cluster fermentations) to dial up the sappiness and bright fruit while keeping that essentially Novello tannic bite on the finish. The Barbera Bricco dei Merli is juicy and savory, showing classic Piedmont notes of sour cherry and violets. Both are made with the same attention (hand harvesting, careful sorting, old vines) you'd expect to see on the Barolos. 
 
And then there are those Barolos. The 2021 Cascina Nuova offers classic Novello elegance at an accessible price point, while the 2019 Ravera Bricco Pernice—from their historical cru—is a genuine showstopper, the kind of wine that reminds you why this producer belongs among Piedmont's best.
 
We love being able to share a feast like this: wines that offer both an overview of a truly great producer and a tour through their remarkable corner of the Langhe. Click through below to see the full range.
 
Elvio Cogno Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 2023 - $37.99
Nebbiolo you could sip with a chill or enjoy with a steak (or both). “Pale crimson with lifted raspberry and wild strawberry. Sappy fruit and an attractive bite of tannins on the finish.” (JancisRobinson.com)
 
Elvio Cogno Nascetta di Novello Anas-Cetta 2023 - $37.99
“The Elvio Cogno 2023 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta has a beautiful bouquet with a note of grilled pineapple that you might get in Hawaiian food, along with orchard fruit, crushed stone, wild sage and wildflowers with yellow petals. I even get a hint of bacon smoke and flint stone… It closes with tart freshness.” Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
 
Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli 2021 - $38.99
James Suckling raved about the “notes of sour cherries and redcurrants with citrus peel and floral undertones. Juicy and savory with medium body and crunchy red berry character. Vivid finish.” A perfect example of how a truly Piedmontese wine can also be perfectly accessible.
 
Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 2021 - $79.99
“The most accessible wine in the family's portfolio, and indeed, the intensity threshold is a little lower in this case (especially compared to the Ravera), although you do get plenty of delicate Nebbiolo nuances. The bouquet offers dark fruit, blue flower and spice. This wine ages in large Slavonian oak casks for 24 months, so the primary fruit remains front and center.” Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
 
Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice 2019 - $179.99
The showstopper: powerful yet refined, with layers of tar, rose, truffle, and decades of aging potential. Monica Larner gave it 95+ points, James Suckling 94, but our favorite review is Jeff Porter’s in Wine Enthusiast. Jeff is an Italian specialist who lives in Piedmont now and we quote his review in full:
 
Wild berries and a profusion of drying flowers leap from the glass of this Barolo. The palate is substantial with an enticing spiciness and core of juicy mixed wild berries that endear one to the wine. Despite its youth and the present tannins this Bricco Pernice is already delicious with a suppleness that is welcomed but do not fret, this wine will go the distance. Drink Now - 2045

 

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